Puppy Food - Your pup is currently eating Merricks Puppy Food. Feed ½- cup of food, three-to-four times a day. If you are changing the pups diet, you will want to introduce the new food in increments, gradually increasing new food and decreasing previous food. This will create a smoother transition for your pups bowels.
Transitioning Food - Switching your dog’s food abruptly can cause gastrointestinal upset such as vomiting, diarrhea, and a decreased appetite. Any time you decide to change your dog’s food, you should transition to the new diet gradually in order to give your dog’s system time to adjust to the change. Ideally, these transitions should happen over 5-7 days. During this transition, you will gradually incorporate more and more of the new food by mixing it with your dog’s current diet. For most dogs, a good diet transition will look like this:
• Day 1: 25% new diet and 75% old diet.
• Day 3: 50% new diet and 50% old diet.
• Day 5: 75% new diet and 25% old diet.
• Day 7: 100% new diet.
Food Bowls - The best food bowl for your pup will be one to help pace itself from eating too fast. We recommend buying a slow feeder bowl.
Collar or Harness - We found that harnesses work best for bulldogs because they are so chubby, they don’t really have a neck. Most importantly do what is most comfortable for pup, and don’t forget to buy an id tag.
Crate/Sleeping Bed - We recommend buying a crate that will be suitable for your bulldog when it is full grown (30Lx19Wx21H), make sure it has a divider for crate training as your pup grows up.
Toys - balls, tug ropes, rubber rings, treat balls, and especially kong toys as they are a fantastic way to keep your pup entertained and mentally stimulated.
Stain & Scent Remover - potty training ahead, this will come in handy when pup has accidents, you will want to remove the potty scent to keep pup from finding its new favorite spot.
Grooming Supplies - Here are a few things we recommend: antimicrobial wipes (baby wipes will work as well), nose balm, tear eye stain remover, ear cleanser, defurminator brush, oatmeal shampoo & conditioner, deodorizing spray, nail grinder/clippers, toothbrush & toothpaste for dogs.
Potty Training:
Crates are an important puppy house training tool that can make your life easier.
Puppy pads and paper training offer a temporary solution to housetraining.
Consistency, attention, understanding, and patience are all key in housetraining.
The use of puppy pads and paper training can be “tricky because you’re reinforcing two different options for the puppy.” In an ideal situation, pups would learn to hold it indoors and only eliminate it at specific spots outdoors. But some cases may require a bit of creative thought, such as a person who has a job that makes it impossible to get home several times a day, or for a tiny dog living where the winters are brutal. Puppy pads give a dog the option of relieving herself in an approved spot at home. After the dog matures, the owner can then work on having the dog do her business outdoors all the time.
A good guide is that dogs can control their bladders for the number of hours corresponding to their age in months up to about nine months to a year. (Remember, though, that 10 to 12 hours is a long time for anyone to hold it!) A 6-month-old pup can reasonably be expected to hold it for about 6 hours. Never forget that all puppies are individuals and the timing will differ for each.
Monitor daily events and your puppy’s habits when setting up a schedule. With very young puppies, you should expect to take the puppy out:
First thing in the morning
Last thing at night
After playing indoors
After spending time in a crate
Upon waking up from a nap
After chewing a toy or bone
After eating
After drinking
Crate Training:
Crate training isn't "imprisoning" your dog. It gives them their own space and can calm anxiety.
Create positive associations with the crate through the use of treats and games.
Be patient — crate training can take six months of consistent training.
Many people who are new to dogs cringe at the idea of confining their puppies in crates, but the reluctance to use this tool generally evaporates after a few days of living with a new pet. Dog crates make life easier. It’s a good idea to get your dog accustomed to one for many reasons, such as vet visits, travel, convalescence, and safety.
Dogs are den animals and will seek out a little canine cave for security whether you provide one or not. That makes it relatively easy to train your dog to love her crate.
The principle behind using a crate for house training is that dogs are very clean creatures and don’t like a urine-soaked rug in their living spaces any more than you do. It’s important that the crate is the right size—just large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up, and turn around. If it is too large, the dog will feel that it’s OK to use one corner for elimination and then happily settle down away from the mess. Many crates come with partitions so you can adjust the size as your puppy grows.
When she feels an urge, the puppy will usually let you know by whining and scratching. That’s her signal that she has to go and wants out of her little den. Now! Don’t delay because if you let your pup lose control in her crate, she’ll get the idea that it’s OK to mess up her living space. Then she’ll think nothing of leaving little packages around where you live, too.
Step 1 - Choose the Right Crate for Your Dog; just large enough for the dog to lie down, stand up, and turn around. If it is too large, the dog will feel that it’s OK to use one corner for elimination and then happily settle down away from the mess.
Step 2 - Establish the Proper Mindset; If you put the dog in the crate when they’re playing, then they’ll want to come back out and continue to play. But if you bring them in when they’re calm, they will likely view it as a place of rest. Start by bringing them in for 10 minutes at a time and work your way up from there.
Step 3 - Determine How Your Dog Will Be Most Comfortable; Some people use dogs beds or towels to create a comfy environment, but that may not always be the best option. Once again, it’s trial and error. “Depending on the dog you have, they may tear a dog bed apart or they may use it to pee on,” she warns. “It’s not a bad thing for them to just sleep on the crate mat itself. Dogs actually do prefer hard surfaces.”
Step 4 - Give the Dog a Treat After They Go Into the Crate; Positive praise. A good trick is giving the pup a kong toy filled with peanut butter. That way when they’re hanging out in the crate, they have something that stimulates them. It gets the dog used to being in the crate for a longer period of time, while also associating it with an enjoyable activity.
Step 5 - Keep an Eye on the Time; Your dog needs time outside the crate to play, eat, and use the bathroom. Dogs don’t want to soil where they sleep, but if there’s too long of a stretch without a walk, they might end up doing so.
Step 6 - Play Crate Games; The dog shouldn’t see the crate as a negative place. To ensure this, incorporate the crate into fun games where the pup goes in and out of the open crate at their own will. Try throwing the ball in the crate when playing fetch or hide treats inside for the dog to find.
Step 7 - Set Your Dog Up for Success; Once you are ready to give your dog more time inside the crate, do it in small steps. We advise using a camera to determine what your dog does while you’re gone. “Are they anxious? Are they pacing? Or are they calm?”. Then you know — and when you come back, you can reward them.
Grooming your Bulldog:
The wrinkles on the Bulldog's face need to be regularly checked to make sure the skin is clean and dry, as food or moisture can get trapped and cause irritation or infection. A cotton ball dipped in peroxide can be used to clean the wrinkles, and cornstarch can be applied afterward to aid in drying'”although neither should be used near the eyes. The ears and the area under the tail should be kept clean, and the dog's nails trimmed every two weeks or so.
Step 1
Set a bathing schedule of just one bath every month or two. While that wouldn't fly for a human, your pup can get away with it. He has a short little coat loaded with protective oils, and if you bathe him too often, it'll strip all those good oils off and be bad for his skin.
Step 2
Brush out that beautiful coat before bath time. Since his skin is so sensitive, use a brush with soft or rounded bristles.
Step 3
Fill your tub with warm water, but just a few inches. Just give him water up to about knee-level.
Step 4
Massage some mild dog shampoo into your dog's coat. We recommend oatmeal based products. Remember, he has sensitive skin, so be gentle. This keeps his skin safe until the oils build back up naturally. Wash him starting at the neck and working your way back to the tail, and don't forget areas like the undercarriage, and legs. Finally, rinse him off, getting all that soap out of his fur.
Step 5
Let your pup out of the tub and towel him off. While his coat dries off, you have the perfect opportunity to clean out his face. Use the wrinkle wipes, tear eye stain remover, and ear cleanser. Now is a good time to clean out all those moist areas and facial folds. Keep doing that with new swabs until they come out clean, then wipe out his folds one more time with a dry cotton swab to catch any extra moisture.
Health:
Every dog is a potential victim of heat exhaustion, but the shorter breathing system of the Bulldog is what puts them at such a very strong risk for heat stroke. Shorter airway means less possibility of cooling the air which the dog draws into its body. Their only means of reducing built-up body heat is by panting. The leading cause of heat exhaustion, and its advancing into heat stroke.
The first signs of heat exhaustion: a) Excessive panting b) the skin on the inside of the ears becomes flushed and red. Heat Exhaustion can progress into Heat Stroke, as indicated by: a) Weakness b) Staggering c) Fainting - loss of consciousness Heat stroke is an emergency situation. If your dog shows signs of heat stroke, you must cool him down as rapidly as possible.
Many dogs will play until they drop. You must supervise the games, and determine when it is time to stop. During hot weather, limit your dog's time outside. Be sure that there is a shaded area for your dog to rest in and that your dog has a constant supply of clean water. Never, EVER underestimate your dog's susceptibility to heat stroke. Limit their exposure to temperatures which you might personally find only mildly hot, be conscious of your dog's proximity to hot pavement, NEVER leave your Bulldog in a locked car in even mild weather, and always allow them lots of access to fresh water, shade, and cool areas to escape from heat.
Bulldog owners should be vigilant to ensure their dog does not become overheated. A Bulldog should not be left out in the hot sun unsupervised or without access to shade and water, and of course no dog should be left in an enclosed car in even mildly warm weather. If a Bulldog is overexcited or breathing too hard, his tongue will hang out unusually far and have a bluish cast instead of the normal pink.
Bulldogs are mellow and are happy to relax next to their owner's feet, but they also enjoy an occasional romp and going on walks. Moderate exercise will help the dog to stay trim. Very warm days are best spent in front of an air-conditioner, however, as the Bulldog's short muzzle can make breathing difficult in heat and humidity. Stairs and pools also present major safety hazards. Bulldogs enjoy wading in very shallow water, but they should never be allowed in water that's more than elbow deep unless supervised closely.